Collegiate Times

The Homeplace dishes out classic Southern cookin'

October 22, 2008 | by Jonathan Yi, CT regular columnist

About half an hour out of Blacksburg in a cozy nook off Highway 311, The Homeplace is hardly a secret. I found either people didn't know anything about it, knew about it but didn't know how to get there, or were dying to go back. Located in Catawba, The Homeplace has made a name for itself in the most classic of fashions. With exemplary southern cooking and a welcoming atmosphere, rest assured I will bring my family back for more.

Originally built by the John Morgan Family in 1907, The Homeplace was a farm where the family raised purebred horses, beef cattle and later produced dairy products on 600 acres. After a period of inoccupation, it went up for auction in 1978 and was purchased by Harold C. Wingate (whose family currently owns 150 of the original 600 acres). The Homeplace was opened as a restaurant for business Sept. 17, 1982.

Looks can be deceiving -- it hardly looks like your customary restaurant, although engaged in custom. The Homeplace's elegance and the refined look of its structure complements its family style environment.

The menu is minimal but effective. For $13, you get your choice of two meats (among fried chicken, roast beef, country ham) or you can get all three for a dollar extra -- they also serve pork BBQ on Thursdays.

Then you get unlimited sides of mashed potatoes, pinto beans, green beans, cole slaw, corn, baked apples and warm homemade biscuits. Oh, don't forget the apple butter (on sale in the waiting lobby) -- to die for.

If that isn't enough to fill you up, dessert is vanilla ice cream with cobbler, depending on what fruit is in season.

I recommend the peach to top it all off.

Wingate, a real estate appraiser and owner of The Homeplace, purchased the place with little interest.

Now with his tremendous involvement, he doesn't find the menu too far from home.

"I grew up in Grayson County on your typical farm," Wingate said. "My mother and grandmother cooked southern-style food and I married a farm girl who was accustomed to cooking just like them, so I've been around this kind of food my whole lifetime."

The Wingates have, for the most part, kept the business in the family. Owner Wingate personally runs the register with the help of his son Kevin.

His wife Millie and daughter Martha also help with the restaurant. Together they've formulated a solid menu and an unrivaled milieu.

"Some of the recipes are from my wife's family and my family," Wingate said. "The first cook we had here had been cooking country food for years. But basically, it's all about cooking the flavor in the food during preparation. You season beans with ham, sugar, salt and peppers while it's still in the pot -- a pepper shaker won't make it tasty on the plate. This is our philosophy, but they are really just basic southern recipes."

After looking a good while for a parking spot, there were plenty of people waiting for their food -- certainly a reassuring feeling when visiting a restaurant.

An old-timer leaving the restaurant loosened his belt and smiled.

"I'm sorry, but we ate all the food!"

I hadn't seen someone so satisfied since Tracy McGrady scored 13 points against the San Antonio Spurs in the last 33 seconds of the game. But the crowd was unquestionably diverse: some young, some old, some Hokies, and those who definitely had made quite the trip.

There were even high school students waiting for dinner before their homecoming. As distinct as they were standing in their tuxedos and dresses, I finally understand now why they all had gathered.

You can expect to spend some time waiting on the porch or in the gazebo upon arrival, but no worries -- the scenic backdrop will keep you occupied.

Upon my first visit to The Homeplace, my friends and I were able to throw a Nerf Vortex in the field out front, so time really isn't a factor -- you always end up waiting less than you think.

"Bolin, party of 10!" blared over the intercom, by none other than manager Kevin Wingate, Harold Wingate's son.

We all headed in after brief physical activities and were greeted by smiles and two cold pitchers of lemonade and sweet tea.

The service was excellent and tremendously punctual. Amid the chaos, my glass was never half full.

Deciding to spread the heartfelt food, Wingate finds himself conveniently located in Catawba, drawing customers for miles.

"The Homeplace is very well located, 10 miles from downtown Salem ... and of course it's really close to Virginia Tech," Wingate said. "But we draw heavily for hundreds of miles. We had people today from Tennessee, which we are very appreciative of."

Speaking of location, The Homeplace is a popular stop for hikers on the Appalachian Trail.

"If you're in our parking lot and you look back south at the mountain behind the restaurant, the trail runs from the top of the mountain," Wingate said. "Hikers have said The Homeplace is the best restaurant on the Appalachian Trail, which is over 2,000 miles. It's hard for me to imagine, but we don't mind taking the credit -- it's quite interesting."

Although The Homeplace retains its small town feel, Wingate rarely sees attendance slowing down.

Despite only being open four days a week, The Homeplace has known nothing but consistency.

"We will average around 100,000 to 115,000 people a year," Wingate said. "Our busiest Sunday of the year is Mother's Day with about a 1,600 attendances, then Tech graduation with about 1,300 on back-to-back weekends."

Even with so many customers, the crowd never infringes on its comfortable atmosphere.

You can tell people are really enjoying their food, which is good because the Wingates will always rely on word-of-mouth advertising.

"There is really no food exactly like it," Wingate said. "It's where to get a good country meal at a reasonable, fair price. You can buy advertising, but word-of-mouth is best and it's free. If people are excited about it, they know it's a place they can recommend. No salad bar, seafood and steaks -- we try to have a good country meal and we do it well."

"The view is impeccable, the food is delicious, and the service is outstanding," said junior biochemistry major Jennifer Thornton. "The biscuits and apple butter itself left me totally satisfied."


Find this article at: http://www.collegiatetimes.com/stories/12288/the-homeplace-dishes-out-classic-southern-cookin