As my palate has steadily expanded from orange foods (namely: Cheetos and Velveeta), foreign cuisine has become a mainstay of my diet. The latest addition is Ethiopian food, introduced by a friend in Louisville during spring break and then found it in downtown Blacksburg at Excellent Table.
Ethiopian dishes may seem exotic, but the basic elements are familiar. The parts — meat, vegetables and bread— are the standards of American meals. Traditional spices provide a distinctive flavor but it is the way the food is consumed that truly sets it apart.
Ethiopian dishes eschew silverware in favor of injera, a spongy yet substantial flatbread provided in large portions. Pieces are torn off and used to collect the entree, which is usually a meat or spicy vegetable. The process feels natural shortly into a meal and provides a fun, hands-on alternative to utensils.
The meats and vegetables in Ethiopian dishes are generally served in a thick stew known as a wat. Typical dishes include beef, chicken, lamb, fish, lentils, potatoes and mixed vegetables. There are no pork products, as Ethiopia’s population is predominately Orthodox Christian and Muslim.
Since I’m a fan of Indian cuisine and eating with my hands, Ethiopian food naturally hits the spot for me. The injera is the key to the experience. It finds the perfect balance between sturdy and lightweight, which allows it to be eaten in mass quantities without leaving you unpleasantly stuffed.
The unique presentation also makes for a wonderful group experience. Multi-person dishes are a trademark of Ethiopian food. Large quantities and varieties of meats, vegetables and side dishes are served on top of injeras for everyone around the circle to share. Since portions vary between restaurants, I’ve found this is the best option for first-time visitors.
A summer of intern lunches at Washington D.C.’s numerous Ethiopian dining spots had me craving the food after returning to school. Fortunately, quality African cuisine can be found in Blacksburg and near the Virginia Tech campus no less.
Excellent Table is a take-out establishment offering traditional Ethiopian food served with some of the best injera I’ve ever tasted. Located next to Champs, on the back side of Market Square Park, the small restaurant makes up for its lack of size with authentic dishes served with no frills but plenty of taste.
I’m not kidding about the size — it is a small room with tasteful yellow coloring and a buffet-style counter. The server enthusiastically explains the menu options to those unfamiliar with Ethiopian dishes and fills the take-out boxes with a decent, not spectacular, portion of the chosen entree. Single orders are provided with one injera; multi-person dishes are served with several.
My first visit to Excellent Table was at 7 p.m., a mistake in retrospect as the prepared entrees were largely depleted. I recommend going earlier to ensure the daily dishes are available.
A quirk of the restaurant is its cycling menu. The meats change every two days.
Chicken and lamb were the options presented for me. On other days, beef and seafood are served. A schedule for the dishes is posted within the restaurant.
I chose the lamb and mild lentils, served with an injera and apple from the farmers market held outside earlier that day.
Two friends split the multi-person dish with chicken, lentils and mixed vegetables. The portions seemed reasonable for the most part, a notable exception being the injera for the single-person dish. I quickly finished off my serving and had to eat some of my friends’ dishes to finish the meal.
The lamb was tender but not exceedingly memorable on its own merits. Within the hearty wat, however, it made for a delectable dish, though I found my friends’ chicken to be spicier and more satisfying.
The highlight of the meal was the lentils. The spicy variety was finished by the time we had arrived, but I was surprised at just how much bite the “mild” dish contained. The tropical iced tea I purchased with the meal came in handy and was equally tasty.
On my subsequent visit, I arrived at noon to a freshly stocked counter. The staff, courteous in all of my experiences, recognized me and suggested the best dishes available that day. I left with spicy beef with potatoes and the spicy lentils, my favorite combination of Ethiopian plates.
I wasn’t disappointed. The beef and potatoes were the highlight of my two visits to Excellent Table, spicy but also overflowing with the different flavors of the traditional spices. There was a significant “kick” that put me through two drinks quickly but didn’t hide the inspired taste.
The lentils lived up to their label, but I found them lacking in flavor compared to their milder counterparts. This isn’t to say they were bad; I enjoyed them a great deal as a complement to the beef. In this case, however, the zest overwhelmed the legume’s savory taste.
The prices at Excellent Table are reasonable for Ethiopian food but could be considered expensive on a college budget.
A single dish with injera runs for about $9. My favorite meal, the meat and lentils, costs $11. Yes, a little more than a sub or tacos, but in my opinion it’s a small price to pay for expanding your culinary horizons.
With a convenient location near campus, helpful staff and delicious authentic Ethiopian cuisine, Excellent Table is one of Blacksburg’s foreign dining jewels. Students looking to try something new are encouraged to go with a friend and share an excellent meal bursting with traditional African flavors.
Just remember to wash your hands first.