Collegiate Times

Turn onto University City Boulevard. Park behind Blockbuster and open your door. You can?t miss it. As you open the front door of this charming little restaurant, the intense aroma of freshly baked bread and the subtle scent of wine combine to offer guests an intoxicating invitation to sit down and try the cuisine.

A lovely wine tasting area that resembles a winery in Southern Italy flanks the front of the restaurant. As you make your way to the service counter, the cheesecakes catch your eye and your mouth starts to water. In the background you hear classical instrumentals. The quick, polite service from the servers dressed in black boosts the experience further.

Then the atmosphere begins to fall apart. As you make your way to your table, you notice green walls that look reminiscent of those you?d find in a poorly lit aquarium. When I arrived at my table, I naturally expected to sit down. However, the tables were too close together and since the host practically ran away, I was forced to shimmy between my table and chairs to be able to sit. As I looked around, I began to feel a little claustrophobic. Surrounded by plants randomly scattered around and pictures of even more flowers lining the walls, I noticed a lack of windows. Maybe that?s why it was so dark.

After experiencing charming Italy with two senses and an uninspiring interior with another two, I was unsure of what to expect from the kitchen with the fifth. The menu offers a wide variety of selections, from reasonably priced sandwiches ($6.00-$8.00) to more expensive entrees ($8.00-$15.00). Zeppoli?s also offers daily lunch specials, and a soup and salad option.

I decided to try a cup of the Cajun crab bisque soup to start. Smelling very fishy, the taste was a perfect blend of spice and crab. The cup was filled with chunks of crabmeat and the serving size was the ideal start to my meal. The soup was served with a small loaf of homemade bread. Baked exactly the way I like it, a little bit crunchy on the outside, with a soft, warm inside; the bread is perfect for dipping into the soup.

I ordered the Greek shrimp for my main course. Beautifully presented with a colorful array of vegetables, pasta and shrimp, the dish gave off aromas of fresh lemon, tomato and shrimp. Consisting of ripe olives, green beans, onions, feta, garlic, tomato and a spicy butter sauce, the Greek shrimp did not meet my expectations. The sauce over the linguini was far too buttery and I didn?t taste any feta.

The overall flavor of the dish could be described as clean and earthy, but didn?t offer any spice. I couldn?t even taste the garlic. I tried eating an olive with every bite of linguini and that helped give it some flavor.

I also tried the baked Italian sub, consisting of pepperoni, ham, salami and melted mozzarella cheese. The m?lange of warm meat, fresh bread and a juicy balsamic vinaigrette dressing was an amazing improvement from the boring pasta dish, and I highly recommend it.

For dessert, I asked the waiter to make his recommendation. It was between the pistachio gelato and chocolate chip cannolis. He told me to try the cannolis, which proved a mistake. They reminded me of a cheap, store-bought pastry. Next time I?m opting for the gelato.

So, what is a Zeppoli? A Zeppoli is a ball of fried dough topped with powdered sugar. I wish they had those tasty little treats available on their dessert menu.

Zeppoli?s Italian Restaurant has a wide variety of cuisine, but if you want a little taste of heaven, stick to the sandwiches. The restaurant also offers wine tasting every other Wednesday. For more information, visit their website at www.zeppolis.com or contact zeppolis2000@yahoo.com.